The Show Before The Show

We are keen theatre goers in our family, and as such, are always looking for good places to eat pre or post theatre. To be honest, I’m mainly a fan of the pre-theatre meal, as by the time most shows are over it is usually nearly ten pm, and frankly by then I’m pretty much past dinner. I could have been the woman for whom Rodgers and Hart wrote the line “She gets too hungry for dinner at eight”, although I really do not consider myself to be a tramp!

I’ve written before about pre-theatre dinners in London, which is now very nearly my hometown, living as I do only a few miles outside the capital. Having travelled as much as I have though, I have to say that even in cities known for their theatre, it can be hard to find a good place for a meal before the show. You want something special, but not overwhelming. Most of all you want something that allows you to eat in time for the opening curtain, without making you feel bloated and over-full as you sit watching the show. So on any given evening, from London to New York and from Chicago to the West Coast, you will find theatre goers searching for the perfect pre-theatre repast.

While I was in New York with my family this summer, I found an amazing place for a pre-theatre dinner, and we were not even heading for Broadway. In fact, we had tickets for an evening visit to Top of the Rock – the observation platform at the top of Rockefeller Center. We had had a full day sightseeing in Manhattan and had returned to our hotel, the Muse Hotel on West 46th Street just off Broadway, for a rest, only to realise we were running a bit late. We wanted to have something delicious and special for dinner, but needed something fairly quick. It was a spur of the moment decision to eat in Nios, the hotel restaurant.

Thankfully it was not too busy when we came downstairs as we had not made a reservation. The hostess greeted us warmly and assured us lack of reservations were not a problem (as we were a bit later, the early rush of diners had subsided). She showed us to a very nice table and then presented us with a menu, entitled “The Show Before The Show”. It was very cleverly divided into sections for easy perusal – “First Act” listed appetizers, “The Show” listed main courses and “Encore” listed desserts. With at least seven choices in each section we were spoiled for choice, and prices were very reasonable for a restaurant within a stone’s throw of Times Square.

My husband and I had the Corn Chowder, which featured manila clams, pee wee potatoes and heirloom baby carrots. It was the nicest chowder I have ever had, served piping hot with delicious, fresh ingredients. A sprinkling of chilli powder round the edge of the bowl meant that you could season it to taste, as well as providing a beautiful decoration. Our son enjoyed the Crispy Pork Ribs flavored with ginger and soy. Other choices for starters included an Arugula Salad, Heirloom Tomato Salad or Sheep’s Milk Gnocchi. I was also seriously tempted by the Butter Poached Shrimp served with creamy grits in a bouillabaisse sauce. That is definitely what I will have next time!

The starters were light and flavorful, perking our appetites for the main course just as they should. The Slow Roasted Pork loin was beautifully cooked and the Apple Barbeque Sauce served alongside was just amazing. Grilled Corn and Fava Beans were the side dishes served with this main course, which both my husband and I chose. Our son enjoyed the Saffron Chicken served with Israeli Couscous, Fava Beans and Zucchini. None of us was brave enough to try the Bison and Bacon Meatloaf that was on offer, but I’ve since been told it is utterly delicious. House Made Fettuccini was another main course choice, and for a five dollar supplement you could also choose from Arctic Char, a Grilled Flat Iron Steak or Seared Sea Scallops.

The desserts at Nios, created (as was the whole menu) by Chef Patricia Williams, are intriguing with a very modern edge. My husband chose the Rose Petal Panna Cotta with pomegranate foam and lemon thyme honey. It was utterly exquisite (he is very good at sharing!). My Peach Crisp was flavored with basil, something I found a bit startling at first, but which definitely grew on me. A mascarpone meringue offset the unique flavors beautifully. Nios also offer a selection of homemade ice creams and sorbets in a choice of unexpected and delicious flavors which our son really enjoyed. Current ice cream flavors include Apricot Tarragon, Root Beer, Yogurt and Cherry Cinnamon. Different yes, but also incredibly delectable. (My son is good at sharing too!)

Chef Patricia Williams should be very proud of this menu, and I understand that the a la carte selection is equally intriguing and delicious. Any meal at Nios will be enhanced by the excellent selection of wines offered on their extensive wine list. Prepared by Master Sommelier Emily Wines, it offers great taste at all price points. We enjoyed one of the mid-priced wines, a delicious Sauvignon Blanc. If you fancy something a bit more exotic, there is also a huge range of cocktails on offer.

With their wide range of dishes and the friendly, modern atmosphere, you are sure to have a wonderful experience at Nios, whether you are enjoying their Pre-Theatre Menu, something from their a la carte selection or one of their dishes designed for sharing over drinks. It’s a real gem tucked away round the corner from the excitement of Times Square, and well worth a visit.

Check out Nios’ website at http://www.niosrestaurant.com/

A Very Un-Stuffy British Institution

Dining at the Criterion is more than just having dinner; it is an experience. The restaurant does not look that remarkable from the outside, especially in the face of the bright lights of Piccadilly Circus, but when you walk through the revolving doors you cannot help but be struck by the décor.

The Criterion Restaurant is stunningly beautiful, a showcase of marble and mosaic. It’s exotic and elegant in the same breath, with rich fabrics hanging at the windows, mirrored walls, and a gold mosaic ceiling you cannot help but stare at open-mouthed. It’s said that Sir Arthur Conan Doyle first imagined the meeting between Dr Watson and Sherlock Holmes while having a drink at the Criterion Long Bar and it is a scene that is not at all hard to picture. In fact, if you changed the dress worn by patrons today to that of another era, it would be easy to believe you had stepped back in time. In the past, the Criterion has witnessed diners as illustrious as Winston Churchill, G K Chesterton and H G Wells. The suffragettes met there, as did many other groups including the Royal College of Science. It has also been used for films; most recently scenes from ‘The Dark Night’ and ‘A Good Year’ were shot there.

The Criterion Restaurant is located in Piccadilly Circus, right in the heart of the theatre district. In fact, it is adjacent to a theatre of the same name. Since the 1870’s, both theatre and restaurant have been a huge part of life in the West End.

But most of all, the Criterion is a wonderful place to eat. It is not just the décor that harks back to another era; the service does too. It is unfailing polite, efficient and discreet all at the same time. Although you will be offered bottled water, no one sniffs if you ask for tap water; in fact it will be presented to you in a decorative glass bottle (and no, there is no charge).

If you fancy something with a bit more kick, the Long Bar serves up just about any cocktail you can dream of, and there is a wonderful selection of wines at all price points – by the bottle and the glass.

I know from pleasant experience that the menu changes regularly, but it always offers a fine selection of dishes. Their seafood is outstanding and all sustainably sourced. They also offer a pre or post theatre set menu that is available Monday to Saturday lunchtime and evening. It was this menu my husband and I dined from on Saturday evening before going to watch our son perform at Her Majesty’s Theatre in The Haymarket. Offering a selection of five choices within each course, it is one of the most varied set menus I have yet to come across.

I started with the Charentais Melon and Parma Ham. The serving was incredibly generous and it was absolutely delicious. My husband had their Smoked Salmon with Horseradish Cream and pronounced it the best smoked salmon he had ever eaten. He can speak with some authority on this, having eaten quite a lot of smoked salmon in his time.

For main course, I chose pan-fried line caught Cornish Pollock with White Cabbage and Red Grapes. The dish was beautifully presented and absolutely delicious. It came accompanied by crushed new potatoes. I was pleased to be eating a fish that had been sustainably sourced and impressed that the menu emphasized this. My husband chose Braised British ‘Rose’ Veal, with Horseradish and a Celeriac Remoulade. ‘Rose’ veal is the only veal available in Britain, and is raised without the cruelty of veal crates, so this dish was politically correct as well as being very tasty indeed.

We had not intended to have dessert, but the choices proved far too tempting. I was particularly impressed, as some restaurants do not put their best desserts on a set menu, in the hopes of tempting you off it, but The Criterion’s set menu offered a selection of four tempting treats and some very yummy sounding cheese. In the end, I chose the Pecan Pie with Orange Syllabub and my husband had the Coffee Tiramisu. Both were divine. I’m sorry, but there is no other word for them.

The West End is notorious for expensive restaurants that are less than generous, but The Criterion is not one of these. Our meal cost about £40 (about US$65) per head, including two glasses of wine and a bottle of beer. This also included the tip. For the location, this is positively reasonable, and very good value indeed.

I highly recommend The Criterion. It’s quintessentially British with a touch of the Continent, and an experience you will not soon forget.